Esxence 2027

Attendees, exhibitors & solutions

Who this event is for

Industry trends

Key trends shaping this market and its wider industry.

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Frequently asked

Glossary

1

Esxence

The Milan trade fair dedicated to artistic perfumery, held at Allianz MiCo and organised around niche fragrance houses, raw materials, packaging and selective retail. The 2027 edition runs 24-27 February.

2

Artistic perfumery

The niche fragrance segment built around author-perfumer compositions, rare or high-cost raw materials and limited distribution, sold through selective retail rather than mass-market channels. It is the product focus of the Esxence floors.

3

Niche fragrance house

An independent or limited-distribution perfume brand that controls its own compositions and sells through a curated retailer network rather than through every available shelf. The core exhibitor type in the halls.

4

Author perfumer

The named creator credited for a composition, often working independently or in a small studio rather than anonymously inside a large fragrance house. Many artistic perfumery brands market the perfumer's name alongside the scent.

5

Extrait de parfum

The most concentrated common fragrance form, typically around 20-30% perfume oil, with lower alcohol content and a denser, longer-lasting drydown than eau de parfum.

6

Eau de parfum

A mid-to-high concentration fragrance, commonly around 15-20% oil, positioned as the standard retail format for most niche houses and the format most often ordered at the show.

7

Absolute

A natural perfumery material produced by solvent extraction of a concrete, used for flowers and resins where steam distillation would damage the scent. Absolutes are a standard reference point when buyers assess a house's raw-material quality.

8

Oud

A resinous, smoky-woody note derived from agarwood or reconstructed in the laboratory; a staple accord in Middle Eastern and niche collections, and a frequent point of comparison between houses on the floor.

9

Chypre

A classic fragrance family built on a bergamot top, a floral heart and a mossy-labdanum-patchouli base. Frequently revisited by artistic houses as a technical signature.

10

Fougere

A family structured around lavender, coumarin, oakmoss and bergamot, historically the backbone of masculine perfumery and still a reference structure for niche reinterpretations.

11

IFRA standards

The International Fragrance Association's safety standards restricting or limiting certain materials in fragrance compounds. Relevant to buyers and brands checking whether a formula can be sold across markets.

12

Selective distribution

A distribution model in which a brand sells only through approved retailers that meet presentation and service criteria, protecting pricing and brand positioning. Most Esxence houses rely on it.

13

Discovery set

A curated box of small vials or sprays used by brands and retailers to let customers sample a collection before committing to a full bottle; a common merchandising tool discussed between houses and e-commerce buyers.

14

Allianz MiCo

Milan's congress and exhibition centre in the Portello/CityLife district, the venue for Esxence exhibition halls, meeting rooms and side programming.

15

Portello / CityLife

The redeveloped district northwest of central Milan around Allianz MiCo, served by the M5 Lilla metro at Portello and within walking distance of several conference hotels.